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The Coach x Jean-Michel Basquiat collection campaign includes Jennifer Lopez, Paloma Elsesser, and more celebrities and creatives.
Photo: Courtesy Coach © 2020 Micaiah Carter © Estate of Jean-Michel Basquiat. Licensed by Artestar, New York

Nov 12, 2017 Fashion designer Bella Freud, 56, splits from bestselling author husband James Fox, 72, and falls for toyboy almost 40 years younger than him! Her lover is Taz Fustok, 34, an artist. From candles to cashmere jumpers, London based designer Bella Freud has made a name for herself thanks to the witty, illustrated slogans you'll see on each of her pieces. Inspired by poets, icons and language, Freud's designs have amassed a fashionable following. Shop Bella Freud on Trouva.

Jean-Michel Basquiat bags, César Baldaccini necklaces, and Kenny Scharf sweats are among the unexpected sartorial offerings

While Fashion Week looks more than a little bit different this season, designers are digging deeper than ever to develop collections that will surprise, delight, and inspire, even in the midst of a global pandemic. It seems physical distance and stunted travel have only led to more exciting collaborations, particularly between fashion designers and artists or art institutions. Reflecting a multitude of styles, artful clothing and accessories abound, with sales of many of those pieces going to support a charitable cause. From shoes to necklaces, loungewear to high fashion, these recent collaborations include fresh takes on iconic works by Jean-Michel Basquiat and Claude Monet, as well as innovative designs by emerging artists.

Heron Preston X Kenny Scharf shirt. Photo: Courtesy Heron Preston and Kenny Scharf

Heron Preston X Kenny Scharf jeans. Photo: Courtesy Heron Preston and Kenny Scharf

Heron Preston x Kenny Scharf

A creative talent whose résumé includes DJ, artist, creative director, and designer, Heron Preston skyrocketed to fashion fame when he launched a collection in 2018 with NASA for its 60th anniversary. Since then, he’s become one of the biggest names in street-style fashion, making him a perfect match for artist and muralist Kenny Scharf. The two collaborated on Preston’s fall/winter 2020 collection, which renders Scharf’s 1998 Meanie painting on hoodies, tees, button-downs, and more.

Namacheko × Gregory Crewdson Somnambulism cape for fall/winter 2020 (edition of four). Photo: © Namacheko. Courtesy Namacheko

Namacheko x Gregory Crewdson

One of the most unexpected yet inspiring collaborations comes from Belgian fashion label Namacheko, which collaborated with Gregory Crewdson for its fall/winter 2020 collection. By using an 18th-century method of warp printing, in which individual threads are printed before they are woven, Namacheko imbues the artist’s arrestingly eerie photographs with movement. The range of capes, knitwear, dresses, scarves, and more will soon be available at retailers including the Gagosian Shop.

Bella Freud x Karla Welch Artist Series tee featuring the work of Francis Bacon. Photo: Courtesy Bella Freud and Karla Welch

Bella Freud x Karla Welch Artist Series tee featuring the work of Beatriz Milhazes. Photo: Courtesy Bella Freud and Karla Welch

Bella Freud and Karla Welch x Contemporary Artists

British fashion designer Bella Freud recently partnered with Los Angeles–based celebrity stylist Karla Welch for a limited-edition line of T-shirts whose proceeds will benefit U.S. and U.K. nonprofits that support victims of domestic abuse—an issue that has escalated during the COVID-19 quarantine. Artists represented include Francis Bacon, Ellen Gallagher, John Giorno, Beatriz Milhazes, Annie Morris, Ugo Rondinone, and the designer’s father, Lucian Freud.

Diana Gordon and Jon Batiste wear pieces from the Coach x Jean-Michel Basquiat collection in the fashion house’s new campaign. Photo: Courtesy Coach © 2020 Micaiah Carter © Estate of Jean-Michel Basquiat. Licensed by Artestar, New York

Coach x Jean-Michel Basquiat

For its latest collection, Coach tapped into the enduring power of Jean-Michel Basquiat, a legendary artist who has inspired numerous contemporary fashion collaborations. “Basquiat is the ultimate cultural icon and a symbol of the unorthodox creativity that is nurtured in a place like New York,” Coach creative director Stuart Vevers said in a statement. Handbags, accessories, attire, and shoes reflect a huge range of products emblazoned with the artist’s colorful crowns, dinosaurs, skylines, faces, and phrases.

A dress from Tory Burch’s fall/winter 2020 collection showcases a floral print by artist Francesca DiMattio. Photo: Courtesy Tory Burch

Bella Freud Art Dealer In Los Angeles

Tory Burch x Francesca DiMattio

A frequent collaborator and passionate collector, Tory Burch worked with New York–based ceramist Francesca DiMattio for her fall/winter 2020 collection. (Burch was also the artist’s first buyer.) Appropriately staged at Sotheby’s New York, the designer’s runway show featured models clad in floral prints designed by DiMattio strutting down a catwalk adorned with the artist’s large porcelain sculptures.

Celine César Baldaccini Project Compression necklace in sterling silver. Photo: Courtesy Celine

Celine César Baldaccini Project Compression necklace in vermeil. Photo: Courtesy Celine

Celine x César Baldaccini

This summer Celine teamed up with the foundation of noted French sculptor César Baldaccini to channel his oeuvre in jewelry form. The limited-edition necklace collection offers gold vermeil and silver designs, imagining the artist’s crumpled, scrap-metal “Compression” sculptures in precious materials. The line also reflects Baldaccini’s own interest in making jewelry, including totemic necklaces. Each piece is numbered and comes in a box stamped with the artist’s signature.

MoMA’s new collaboration with Vans includes apparel, accessories, and shoes featuring Vasily Kandinsky’s Orange. Photo: Courtesy MoMA and Vans

Dealer

Vans x MoMA

Should you wish to show your excitement for the Museum of Modern Art’s buzzed-about reopening in New York, the institution has just dropped a new line with Vans. Celebrating the artists in MoMA’s permanent collection, the collaboration will debut in two parts. The first apparel and sneaker launch includes Salvador Dalí’s The Persistence of Memory, Vasily Kandinsky’s Orange, and Claude Monet’s Water Lilies, while pieces showcasing the work of Edvard Munch, Lybov Popova, Faith Ringgold, and Jackson Pollock are to come later this year. The collection will be available for purchase starting September 30 at Vans, MoMA Design Store, and Nordstrom.

Lemaire’s fall/winter 2020 collection features garments with artwork by the late Mexican artist Martín Ramírez. Photo: Courtesy Lemaire

Lemaire x Martín Ramírez

Staged at German artist Ulla von Brandenburg’s solo exhibition at Paris’s Palais de Tokyo, Christophe Lemaire’s fall/winter 2020 collection featured the work of another creative talent: the late Mexican artist Martín Ramírez. After a sea of neutral outerwear, the presentation concluded with an elegant, seamless integration of garments incorporating Ramírez’s deer illustrations and swirling abstractions.

A kaleidoscopic look from the new Onitsuka Tiger x Brian Kenny collection. Photo: Courtesy Onitsuka Tiger

Onitsuka Tiger x Brian Kenny

Japanese company Onitsuka Tiger just unveiled a new, 26-piece line with New York contemporary artist Brian Kenny. Apparel, accessories, and shoes feature the artist’s signature rainbow-hued patchwork designs for one of the most vibrant and kaleidoscopic collections of the season.

The Row’s fall/winter 2020 show paid homage to the late Beverly Pepper by featuring her sculptures on the runway and channeling her work’s lines in the garments’ silhouettes. Photo: Courtesy The Row

The Row x Beverly Pepper

For The Row’s fall/winter 2020 show, founders Ashley and Mary-Kate Olsen paid homage to American artist Beverly Pepper, who died a week prior to the collection’s premiere. Not only did the sculptor’s towering metal artworks line the runway, but the garments themselves evoked the artist’s earthy color palette and long, imposing silhouettes.

Fashion designer Reese Cooper collaborated with artist and designer Juliet Johnstone on a skirt for his spring/summer 2021 collection. Photo: Courtesy Reese Cooper

Reese Cooper x Juliet Johnstone

Though artist and designer Juliet Johnstone may still be considered up and coming, her butterfly-laden fashions have already attracted the likes of Bella Hadid and Dua Lipa. She recently collaborated with Reese Cooper, first runner-up of the 2019 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund, for his spring/summer 2021 collection. If you cannot wait for the arrival of the hand-painted skirt they designed, look out for an extended capsule collection launching exclusively on ssense.com this fall.

Wedel Art Collective face masks designed by Barbara Kruger, Raymond Pettibon, and Rashid Johnson. They are priced from £40 and available for purchase at MatchesFashion. Photo: Zuumeo, Courtesy the artist and Wedel Art Collective

MatchesFashion x Contemporary Artists

This summer, global luxury shopping destination MatchesFashion unveiled nine face masks designed by six renowned contemporary artists to be sold exclusively on its site. The limited-edition lineup includes styles by Jenny Holzer, Barbara Kruger, Rashid Johnson, Lorna Simpson, and Raymond Pettibon, as well as Rosemarie Trockel, who has produced four distinct versions. Behind this artist collaboration is Wedel Art Collective, a new initiative founded by art advisor Amelie von Wedel to raise funds for COVID-19 relief.

Cover: The Coach x Jean-Michel Basquiat collection campaign includes Jennifer Lopez, Paloma Elsesser, and more celebrities and creatives.
Photo: Courtesy Coach © 2020 Micaiah Carter © Estate of Jean-Michel Basquiat. Licensed by Artestar, New York Next Post

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Biba
TypePrivate
IndustryFashion
FoundedAugust 1964 (first store opens)
FounderBarbara Hulanicki, Stephen Fitz-Simon
Defunct1975
FateClosed by the British Land Company
Headquarters,
UK
Barbara Hulanicki, Stephen Fitz-Simon

Biba was a London fashion store of the 1960s and 1970s. Biba was started and primarily run by the Polish-born Barbara Hulanicki with help of her husband Stephen Fitz-Simon.

Early years[edit]

Biba's early years were rather humble, with many of the outfits being cheap and available to the public by mail order. The first store, in Abingdon Road in Kensington, was opened in September 1964. Biba's postal boutique had its first significant success in May 1964 when it offered a pink gingham dress with a hole cut out of the back of the neck with a matching triangular kerchief to readers of the Daily Mirror.[1] The dress had celebrity appeal, as a similar dress had been worn by Brigitte Bardot. By the morning after the dress was advertised in the Daily Mirror, over 4,000 orders had been received. Ultimately, some 17,000 outfits were sold.

Hulanicki worked as a fashion illustrator after studying at Brighton Art College in the late 1950s. She married advertising executive Stephen Fitz-Simon and they soon opened a mail order clothing company that she named Biba's Postal Boutique. Biba was the nickname of her younger sister Biruta.[1]

Big Biba[edit]

The former 'Big Biba' building as it appeared circa 2006

Bella Freud Art Dealer

In 1973 with the backing of Dorothy Perkins and British Land, the store moved to the seven-storey Derry & Toms department store, which immediately attracted up to a million customers weekly, making it one of the most visited tourist attractions in London.[1][2] There were different departments, and each floor had its own theme, such as a children's floor, a floor for men, a book store, a food market, and a 'home' floor which sold items such as wallpaper, paint, cutlery, soft furnishings and even statues. The overall design was produced by Whitmore-Thomas Partnership, run by artist/designers Steve Thomas (artist) and Tim Whitmore.[3] Each department had its own logo or sign, which was based on the Biba logo and had a picture describing the department. These were commissioned by Thomas and Whitmore and designed by Kasia Charko.[4]

The store had an Art Deco-interior reminiscent of the Golden Age of Hollywood[5] and non-traditional displays, such as a giant Snoopy and his doghouse in the children's department, where merchandise based on the PeanutsFs19 ford. comic strip was sold. The Biba Food Hall was also designed ingeniously, each part being aimed at one particular kind of product; a unit made to look like a dog (based on Hulanicki's own dog, a Great Dane named Othello)[6] consisted of dog food; a huge baked beans tin can consisted of only tins of Baked beans; a can of 'Warhol's Condensed Soup' etc., all foods having individual innovative units.Also at the new 'Big Biba' was 'The Rainbow Restaurant', which was located on the fifth floor of the department store and was destined to become a major hang-out for rock stars, but which was not solely the reserve of the elite. With all of these renovations and additions, Biba became known as a 'theatre for fashion.'[1] Also at the site was the Kensington Roof Gardens, which are still there today.

Demise[edit]

Big Biba was a huge responsibility in terms of expense and organization, but Hulanicki and Fitz felt they needed to 'keep moving forward.' Because of this massive undertaking, Hulanicki said, 'Every time I went into the shop, I was afraid it would be for the last time.'[citation needed] No one was aware of how serious the financial difficulties were going to be - and they proved too much for the new entrepreneurs; as a result Dorothy Perkins and Dennis Day came to save the day and bought 75% of Biba. This led to the formation of Biba Ltd, which meant that the brand and the store could now be properly financed.

After disagreements with the Board over creative control, Hulanicki left the company and, shortly afterwards in 1975, Biba was closed by the British Land Company.[1] The Dorothy Perkins shareholder decided that the Derry and Toms building that housed Big Biba was worth more than the ailing business itself. It sold the trademark to a consortium with no connection to Barbara Hulanicki, who opened a store in London on 27 November 1978, on two floors in Conduit Street in London's Mayfair. The store was not a success, and closed less than two years later.

Relaunches[edit]

There have been several attempts to relaunch Biba, the first occurring as soon after its closure as 1977.[7][8] Another relaunch took place in the mid-1990s with Monica Zipper as head designer.[9] Barbara Hulanicki has not been involved with any of these relaunches, and due to the use of Biba's logo and similar labels, these garments are easy to pass off as original vintage pieces.[7]

The Biba label was relaunched again in May 2006 under designer Bella Freud. Again, Biba's founder, Barbara Hulanicki, was not contacted for the relaunch and said it was 'very, very painful', believing that the new Biba would 'betray its heritage.'[10] Freud's first collection Spring/Summer 2007 was unveiled at London Fashion Week in September 2006, and was criticised for straying from the original concept of low-priced clothes for teenagers, needing 'more polish',[11] as they 'had a Biba flavour but lacked the retro details that the original Biba designs had.'[12] Freud's second attempt, Autumn/Winter 2007 was also panned as 'the kind of thing that's already over-available in fast fashion chains.'[13] Freud left the company after just 2 seasons in June 2007 to relaunch her own label.[14] The Biba relaunch failed and the company went into administration for a second time in 2008.

House of Fraser bought the company in November 2009 for a second relaunch by an in-house design team, announcing Daisy Lowe as the new face of the label.[citation needed] Hector Castro and a five-strong team were selected to replace Freud[15] with couture hats created by Prudence Millinery.[16] This relaunch was highly successful, outselling House of Fraser's other in-house brands in just two weeks of its launch, boosting its year end sales.[17] Meanwhile, Hulanicki instead designed capsule collections for rival high-street company Topshop,[18][19] and once again expressed her unhappiness with the relaunch, attacking the new Biba as 'too expensive' and 'for failing to reflect the original Biba style'.[20] She also signed with Asda to produce three to four collections of clothing retailing between £11 and £18.[21]

In 2014, it was announced that Hulanicki would be a consultant to the Biba brand, after signing an agreement with House of Fraser.[22]

Bella Freud Art Dealer In Venice

Legacy[edit]

  • A musical play called Biba: The Musical based on the story of Hulanicki and the original company was in the works in 2009.[23]
  • 'Biba dresses' were listed by Leeds alternative rock band Grammatics Inkjet Lakes from their self-titled debut album.
  • Biba's closing sale is mentioned in the lyrics of the Pet Shop Boys' track 'Requiem in Denim and Leopardskin' (featured on the album Elysium).[24]
  • In the film Made in Dagenham (2010, set in 1968), the main character, Rita O'Grady, borrows a red Biba dress for her first meeting with Barbara Castle, only to find that the minister's outfit comes from C&A.
  • 'The Biba Crowd' by Edward Rogers
  • In the film Bohemian Rhapsody (2018), 'Mary Austin' (Lucy Boynton) the former fiancé of Freddie Mercury', (Rami Malek), works at the Biba store. Several referrals are made to Biba. When Freddie Mercury visits Mary Austin during her shift in the Biba store, he tries on a velvet suit from the woman's department. In one scene, Freddie compliments Mary on her beautiful coat. [Freddie] 'I love your coat'. [Mary] ' Thank you, it's Biba'.

See also[edit]

Bella Freud Art Dealer Login

  • 1960s portal

References[edit]

  1. ^ abcdeMarsh, June (2012). History of Fashion. Vivays Publishing. pp. 100, 104, 118. ISBN978-1-908126-21-4.
  2. ^'BIBA: 'A Strange Disneyland''. British Style Genius - High Street Style. BBC. Retrieved 2011-05-17.
  3. ^http://www.alwynwturner.com/bigbiba/steven.html
  4. ^': Kasia Charko :'.
  5. ^[1]Archived November 21, 2008, at the Wayback Machine
  6. ^'Welcome to Big Biba'. Retrieved 2009-04-08.
  7. ^ abVictoria and Albert Museum. 'Blouse by Biba (1980 relaunch)'. V&A. Retrieved 6 November 2012.
  8. ^Smith, Angie. 'Vintage Fashion Guild: Label Resource: Biba'. Retrieved 6 November 2012.
  9. ^'Dear Annie: Ready to wear'. The Independent. 1 September 1996. Retrieved 6 November 2012.
  10. ^'Biba is back.. and its millionaire creator is none too happy about it'. The Independent. London. 29 January 2006.
  11. ^Sarah Mower (2006-09-19). 'Biba Spring 2007 Ready-to-Wear Collection on Style.com: Runway Review'. Style.com. Archived from the original on 2011-05-19. Retrieved 2011-05-17.
  12. ^'Catwalk Queen: Bella Freud revamps Biba'. Catwalkqueen.tv. 2006-09-21. Retrieved 2011-05-17.
  13. ^Sarah Mower (2007-02-14). 'Biba Fall 2007 Ready-to-Wear Collection on Style.com: Runway Review'. Style.com. Archived from the original on 2011-05-17. Retrieved 2011-05-17.
  14. ^'Bella Freud Exits Biba The Fix'. Daily Front Row. 2007-06-20. Archived from the original on 2013-01-21. Retrieved 2011-05-17.
  15. ^'A five-strong creative team, headed by Hector Castro, will plug the gap left by Bella Freud at Biba (Vogue.com UK)'. Vogue.co.uk. 2007-07-16. Archived from the original on 11 June 2011. Retrieved 2011-05-17.
  16. ^'Biba - Fashion Brand and Label - Profile with designers, editorials and more on FMD'. Fashionmodeldirectory.com. 1978-11-27. Retrieved 2011-05-17.
  17. ^'Relaunched Biba helps boost sales for House of Fraser - Business News'. Yorkshire Post. 23 September 2010. Retrieved 2011-05-17.
  18. ^Jardine, Cassandra (2009-04-28). 'Bibas queen is back in London'. The Daily Telegraph.
  19. ^Jessica Bumpus (2009-04-21). 'Barbara Hulanicki's Topshop collection (Vogue.com UK)'. Vogue.co.uk. Archived from the original on 11 June 2011. Retrieved 2011-05-17.
  20. ^'Biba designer promises Asda range Fashion'. Thisislondon.co.uk. 2010-09-29. Archived from the original on 2011-01-01. Retrieved 2011-05-17.
  21. ^[2]Archived October 3, 2011, at the Wayback Machine
  22. ^Bergin, Olivia (3 November 2014). 'Barbara Hulanicki to return to Biba label after 39 years'. Daily Telegraph. Archived from the original on 4 November 2014. Retrieved 4 November 2014.
  23. ^'Biba The Musical'. Biba The Musical. Archived from the original on 2011-01-28. Retrieved 2011-05-17.
  24. ^'Requiem in Denim and Leopardskin'.

Bibliography[edit]

  • Hulanicki, Barbara (1983). From A to Biba. London: Hutchinson & Co.
  • Thomas, Steven, & Alwyn W. Turner (2006). Welcome to Big Biba. Woodbridge: Antique Collectors Club.
  • Turner, Alwyn W. (2004). The Biba Experience. Woodbridge: Antique Collectors Club.

External links[edit]

Wikimedia Commons has media related to Biba.
  • Exploring 20th century London - Biba Items and oral histories from Biba
  • BBC British Style Genius Video. Twiggy with Barbara Hulanicki discussing Biba

Coordinates: 51°30′05″N0°11′32″W / 51.5013°N 0.1921°W

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